KINSHASA, AN HEROIC SYMPHONY
Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo
June 2009
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Kinshasa, a megalopolis with 8 million inhabitants, continues its never-ending spiral into poverty. The capital of the immense Democratic Republic of the Congo has been destroyed by years of war of corruption. Thirty years ago, it was known as “Kinshasa la belle”, but now its inhabitants call it “Kinshasa la poubelle”, or “Kinshasa the trash can”.
In the middle of garbage heaps that pile up day after day in the streets, small miracles sometimes occur. For the last few years, the music of Beethoven, Handel and Dvorak has been rising up from a hangar in the mass of working-class neighborhoods surrounding the town, known as the “Cité”.
The adventure sprung from the dream of one of the Kimbanguist Church leaders, Armand Diangienda, to set up a big African orchestra. Fifteen years ago, with four self-taught musician friends, he started to patiently teach music theory and practice to a handful of church members. Year on year, the group grew. Today, 225 musicians make up what is the only black symphony orchestra in the whole of Africa.
In a country where owning an instrument is a luxury, the orchestra’s musicians are still far from privileged. They are hairdressers, door-to-door salesmen, or simply out of work. Some of them have learned to read music without being able to read or write words. Like a lot of Congolese, many do not get a daily meal. The lack of public transport means they often have to walk hours to get to rehearsals. Their instruments are made in China, of low quality and held together with whatever is at hand. Yet it would take a lot more to discourage these dedicated musicians, who rehearse every evening of the week and have reached a remarkable musical level. Remarkable enough to seriously dream of making a big European tour.
Report produced for Le Figaro Magazine.
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